To get from Kusadai to Istanbul you have to pass through the Dardanelles - w hat used to be called the Hellespont in classical times. This narrow sea passage between the Aegean and the Sea of Marmara s eparates Europe from Asia. Empires have foundered here, from the Persians to the British - the isthmus on the European side is called Gallipoli. It's now Turkey for quite a distance into Europe, and the Turks have built the longest suspension bridge in the world to help cars and trucks get across it.

It all looks very peaceful and bucolic now. There were Australians and New Zealanders shedding tears as these shores slipped by.